Women in Art · 15th Century to the Present

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Highlighting the role of women in art — as artists and as subjects — from the 15th century through the present day.

Florine Stettheimer and the Jazz Age City in Colour

The 1920s announced itself in New York as a vertical theatre of glass, neon, and perpetual motion. Few artists caught that pulse as vividly as Florine Stettheimer, a painter who turned the metropolitan hum into pastel arias and decorative allegories. Working from a chintz-filled studio on the Upper West Side, she translated the rhythms of a city in love with its own performance into canvases that still feel startlingly modern.

Stettheimer was the sort of figure who could host Carl Van Vechten, Marcel Duchamp, and Georgia O'Keeffe at the same Sunday tea, and still find time to embroider her own dollhouse for the better part of a decade. Born in Rochester in 1871, trained in New York and later in Stuttgart and Munich, she returned to Manhattan in 1914 and stayed, painting the city as it reinvented itself faster than anyone could sketch. Her urban landscapes are not postcards. They are thoughtful, opinionated visions of a place performing itself, and they ask the viewer to slow down long enough to feel the music in the streets.

Aussie readers might first meet her through a borrowed monograph at a Melbourne bookshop or in a quiet corner of the Art Gallery of New South Wales, where prints from her circle occasionally surface among the gallery's deep holdings of twentieth-century women artists. What follows is a look at how Stettheimer painted the Jazz Age, and why her vision continues to resonate in Australian conversations about women, modernism, and the modern city.

A Flâneuse on Fifth Avenue

Stettheimer wandered Manhattan the way a flâneuse might, though she would have politely refused the French term. She was an heiress who had chosen art over expectation, and she observed the city with the cool eye of someone who had seen it from inside and out. Her paintings of department stores, hotel lobbies, and cathedrals of commerce belong to a tradition of urban observation that, in Australia, found its own voice in artists like Grace Cossington Smith, whose radiant depictions of Sydney streets in the same decade hang in the Art Gallery of New South Wales.

The comparison is more than decorative. Where Cossington Smith caught the dazzle of a passing tram, Stettheimer caught the dazzle of a passing crowd. Both artists treated the modern street as a kind of secular cathedral, full of light, ritual, and quiet transcendence. Stettheimer's signature painting Cathedrals of Broadway stacks hotels, theatres, and billboards into a vertical anthem painted in sugar-almond pastels that refuse to settle into mere background. The city is the subject, and the subject is always performing, even when the only audience is the painter.

The Theatrical Stage and Four Saints

Jazz Age New York was a city of stages, and Stettheimer contributed directly to one of the era's strangest and most enduring. In 1934, she designed the sets and costumes for Four Saints in Three Acts, the opera by Virgil Thomson and Gertrude Stein that premiered in Hartford before moving to Broadway. The production was a landmark: an American opera with an all-Black cast, a libretto of playful repetition, and scenery that looked like a cake decorating contest held inside a chapel.

Stettheimer's designs turned the stage into a jewel box. Cellophane, tinfoil, and coloured lamé became her materials of choice, and the result was so distinctive that it shaped how Americans imagined modern opera design for decades. For Australian readers curious about how a single artist's vision could rewrite a whole art form, there is a useful local parallel in the way a handful of women designers reshaped stagecraft at the time. The early productions at Melbourne's Union Theatre and the repertory circuits in Sydney were never quite the same after a new generation of designers, several of them women, began thinking in three dimensions about colour and structure.

Salons, Sisters, and a Dollhouse

No account of Stettheimer's work is complete without her salon and her sisters. Every Sunday afternoon, the apartment she shared with her mother and sisters Ettie and Carrie became a salon for the avant-garde, a place where an American could meet a European, a composer could meet a poet, and a young painter could meet a buyer. The sisters were collectors, confidantes, and quiet patrons of the new, and after Florine's death in 1944, Carrie arranged for her paintings to be donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum of Modern Art, securing her place in the canon.

This was patronage in the truest sense, the kind of cultural stewardship that has shaped art history since the Renaissance and that is examined in Hidden in Plain Sight: The Female Patrons of Renaissance Florence, a study of the women who funded and shaped Florentine art long before they were allowed to sign it. The most enchanting object in Stettheimer's own world is Florine's dollhouse, now in the Museum of the City of New York: twelve rooms, miniature paintings on the walls, working lights, a tiny library with real books, and a grand ballroom with a working pipe organ. The dollhouse is a small city in itself, a model of taste and hospitality that mirrors the way Stettheimer saw Manhattan, as a place where the decorative and the architectural, the private and the public, were never far apart. It is the kind of object an Australian visitor to New York should not miss, particularly anyone with an eye for the way a room can be a portrait.

A Style of Her Own

Stettheimer's brushwork is unmistakable once you have seen it. Figures float in fields of pastel. Buildings tilt and stack like playing cards. Patterns multiply across dresses, walls, and skies, refusing to obey the usual rules of perspective. There is something of the confectioner in her surfaces and something of the diarist in her arrangements. She paints people she knows, places she has walked, and parties she has attended, and she does so with a decorative conviction that often gets her filed under minor or whimsical. The filing is a mistake.

Australian curators, working with a relatively small and fiercely local market, have had to be more inventive about how they place women modernists in the international story. The National Gallery of Australia in Canberra, the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, and the Queensland Art Gallery each hold collections that dialogue with Stettheimer's generation, from Margaret Preston's bold native flora to the late twentieth-century urban paintings of Jenny Watson. When these galleries borrow Stettheimer prints or Stettheimer-adjacent material, the response from visitors is often immediate. Her work is approachable without being simple, decorative without being vacant, and that is a rare combination that translates easily across hemispheres.

Stettheimer and the Cities We Inhabit

What Stettheimer offers Australian viewers today is a way of thinking about cities as felt experience rather than visual record. In Sydney, where the skyline keeps shifting around the new harbourfront developments, and in Melbourne, where the laneways of street art compete with the Edwardian facades, the question of how a city advertises itself is a live one. Stettheimer's billboards, marquees, and shop windows are the ancestors of every light box and LED façade we walk past on a Saturday arvo in the CBD. Her paintings make a case for paying attention, for treating the street as a stage that deserves a careful audience.

For readers moved to widen the lens beyond New York, there is always another way of exploring Tokyo through its own layered visual culture, where neon, woodblock tradition, and contemporary fashion meet in a single street. Stettheimer would have approved of the detour. She believed, after all, that a city worth living in is a city worth looking at, and a city worth looking at is one a painter can call her own. To stand in front of one of her paintings is to be reminded that every great metropolis, from Manhattan to Melbourne, is a stage awaiting its decorator.

Step into the gallery of women who have shaped the modern eye. Browse the curated collections, read the long-form features, and find a print, a tee, or a tea towel that carries a little of the Jazz Age into your own living room. The art of the modern city is still being painted, and the brushes are within reach.